|
Helen Dillon's exuberant garden in its current cheerful incarnation |
A brief trip over to Ireland to run a
workshop for the
Garden Landscape and Design Association. A good
bunch, lively, friendly and asking good questions. I always feel
vaguely ashamed I don't come over to Ireland more often, given that
it is so close – its always brief work-orientated trips. There are
some very good gardens here and the place is famous for gardens, but
there are not actually many of them, and they are not really part of
the culture – and that raises some interesting questions. It is a
fantastic gardening climate: mild winters and cool summers, so it is
possible to mix and match an extraordinary range of flora. Except
that this is not San Francisco, every now and again there is a cold
winter. This summer was the sunniest and warmest in 70 years but
often the summers are very cool, “too cool for barbecues and not
enough sun to make goldenrod flower” someone complained on my
previous trip. Generally though, a lot of Southern Hemisphere plants,
New Zealand and Chilean, do incredibly well.
This trip was a great opportunity to
catch up with the new generation of gardens in the Dublin area and
down the east coast. I say 'new generation' because the gardens that
established the country's reputation for lush gardens were generally
made a long time ago, often late 19th or early 20th
century, by the Anglo-Irish landowning class, so they were on the
grand scale; everyone else just grew potatoes. Ireland looks so much
like England, you often have to do a double-take that it isn't. The
history however is so utterly different, and anyone who doesn't
realise this is travelling blindfold – and far too comfortably. And
there is the fatal British (and more specifically English)
misunderstanding that because everyone talks English there must be a
common culture. Er, no.
|
Dahlia Admiral Rawlings and Salvia Phyllis's Fancy at Carmel Duigan's garden in Shankhill, Dublin |
A part of traditional English (and I
mean English here, not British) self-centredness is the belief that
everyone with a half-decent gardening climate gardens, and that if
they don't there's something wrong with them, a sign of foreign
irrationality - “why don't they garden?” I remember my father
asking of the French/Swiss/Italians (my parents, BTW, would never
have dreamt of setting foot in Ireland). Historically, most places -
everywhere, gardened only to grow veg, fruit and herbs – flowers
were a luxury for the elite (and in the British Isles, that generally
meant the English elite). England, and the Netherlands, are pretty
special in that those outside the elite started flower and ornamental
gardening a few centuries back, in a very small way, but enough to
start a widespread gardening culture. Wealth, and with it, the
opportunity to garden got distributed pretty early. In Scotland,
despite the ethnic cleansing which the country shared with parts of
Ireland and Wales, a similar thing happened – the Scots had their
own elite who soon learnt enough English ways to pass, including
gardening, and it got passed on.
|
Autumn colours at The Bay |
The same did not happen in Wales or
Ireland, “why don't the Welsh garden?” is another English whinge,
often following on from some moan about bilingual signposts. The
elite here were essentially English, i.e. ethnically different, and
one thing you don't do if you are a near-starving rural dweller on a
tiny patch of land between the gorse bushes is copy your colonial
masters, particularly if their foibles include pointless activities
like growing things you can't eat (or indeed hunting animals you
can't eat). So, the historic great gardens of Ireland were made by an
Anglo-Irish (and Protestant) ruling class, many of whom found
themselves being burnt out of house and home by Sinn Fein in the
independence struggle. The gardens wouldn't burn however, so they
generally were left alone to get covered in laurels, rhododendrons
and sycamore.
|
Grasses linking with the landscape at The Bay |
Sitting down to tea and raspberries and
cream with Helen Dillon on Sunday was a far cry from my first visit
to Ireland, many many years ago, staying in a squat in Belfast with a
group of friends, one of whom was later jailed for running an IRA
arms dump. With Helen, the subject of historical divisions soon
arose, as she told me about when she first came to Dublin (42 years
ago) “there were lunches, which were definitely Protestant lunches,
and when people found out I was a gardener they would give me plants,
but on the understanding that I wouldn't give them away, they didn't
want the Catholics (i.e. the native Irish) to have them”.
So, by “new generation of Irish
gardens” what I actually mean is gardens made by the locals,
although there are also some good gardens made by “blow-ins” as I
gather immigrant Europeans are called. Some of these gardens are
fantastic, but a casual peering over the garden gates shows that it
hasn't really sunk into the culture yet. For lovers of good, bold,
exotic, looking foliage, this is heaven.
Carmel Duignan's garden in
Dublin includes so many of those wonderful Araliaceae (ivy family)
species which we, with just a few degrees of frost more, cannot grow.
So, plenty of really good leafy structure for perennials, grasses and
ordinary shrubs, and at this time of year, dahlias, and South
American salvias. The salvias are another group which we struggle
with at home, unless you are committed to treating them as half
hardy, but here they just grow. Their colours are intense and there
is a huge range of species, and a great range within species or
groups of cultivars.
|
Love those pink chairs, Jimi Blake's Huntingbrook garden. |
Helen Dillon's garden was as electric
as her personality with dahlias and salvias, although a big re-think
was clearly going on. I suspect this is a garden that gets a lot of
re-thinking. There were numerous gaps where it looked like she was
going to replant, but a basic structure of some wonderful foliage and
structure plants, including what were to be one of the theme plants
of the weekend – Aralia. Aralia itself however, unlike the southern
hemisphere members of the family, are hardy, so plenty of ideas for
using this dramatic, leafy, highly distinctive, but occasionally
viciously spiny, genus. “I'm giving up colour theme gardening”
announced Helen, “I'm going for the box of smarties approach”.
From the drawing room, where you get a spectacular view over the
garden, this looked like it was just that, but down at ground level,
as I went around photographing plant combinations, it looked like so
many were actually very cleverly balanced.
More aralias in
Jimi Blake's garden - Huntingbrook,
where the drive has a whole forest of A. echinocaulis, whose seed he
collected in China; they cast little shade so he can grow masses of
perennials beneath them. Just at the end of its season, this garden
still had plenty of late colour from dahlias, salvias and lobelias,
and some wonderfully frothy persicarias as did his sister
June's at
the bottom of the hill, where coppiced Paulownia tomentosa made a
backbone for a very varied range of perennials. June's garden is a
good, and actually quite rare example, of a garden which combines a
lot of quite formal contemporary hard structure with exuberant
planting. In fact I think it is exceptionally skillful.
|
Pinus montezumae, a Mexican species, at Mount Usher and the biggest eucalyptus i have ever seen. |
More contemporary planting at
The BayGarden, where an area of very simple planting of various grasses and
late-flowering perennials looks out over the surrounding landscape,
the grasses a good link to the farmed wild, the repetition of a
limited number of late perennials made for an effective, and probably
quite low-maintenance mix. Otherwise this is largely a spring and
early summer garden.
|
The house at Kilmacurragh, one of many ruined memories of a class system swept away by independence, but one day a visitor centre? |
So, what about the 'old' gardens. Many
were lost or got overgrown, but some which have survived have matured
into very rich collections of plants: trees and shrubs in particular
which have benefited from Ireland's soft climate.
Mount Usher, an
upscale shopping mall and over-priced café with a nice garden
attached is one such example; a shame that the profits from the shops
couldn't pay for a bit more thinning out and above all some decent
labelling. Another is
Kilmacarragh, where the curator, Seamus O'Brien
took me on a whirlwind tour. This vast estate, with a long and
complex history, was allowed to become almost completely overgrown
during the 20
th century, with its house becoming a ruin in
the 1980s; parts were sold off to local farmers who promptly set
about felling trees, while the forestry board still hang on to other
areas. “Its like Heligan” says Seamus. A lot better, I would add.
An extraordinary heritage of trees, many of them South American, or
Chinese in origin, many very rare in cultivation, can be found here,
often enormous. It is the most unbelievable botanic treasure trove.
Seamus reports that funding is pretty good and under the wing of the
National Botanic Gardens, continued restoration, development and even
buying back lost acres, is proceeding. His must be one of the nicest
jobs in the garden world right now.
|
Cordyline indivisa |
Garden design is clearly a lively
profession here, although the glory days of the 'Celtic Tiger' will
not come back. On my last visit here, three years ago, several garden
designers I met reported how they had been making money hand over
fist from clients, who just wanted a garden, no questions asked, and
who signed cheques with abandon. There was no doubt a bit of a
generation of 'bling' gardens, with a lot of Italian-import
semi-mature trees (many of which can still be seen languishing in
landscape projects in Dublin's outer suburbs, still the same size as
when they went in) and hardy exotics. Today there are horror stories
of gardens in central Ireland which caught a cold winter particularly
badly where practically the whole garden died.
|
The very stylish June Blake garden, with aralias from brother Jimi |
After some tumultuous years, the future
of the Irish garden looks good, with some very high quality gardens
and world-class gardeners, there is plenty to inspire and learn from.
This applies as much to British gardeners as much as Irish ones. Time
to travel over more often?
My last sight of Ireland as i left the ever-so-swish Dublin airport where I ate possibly the best meal I have ever eaten at an airport, I spotted a sales display of singing leprechauns. Glad to know that the old values still hold. I feared Ireland might have fallen victim to too much good taste.
|
Grasses and lobelias at Huntingbrook |