Its the end of the
winter and it has been very wet, and for the most part very mild. We
have a long growing season here in the Welsh borders anyway, and the
winter wet adds to the problem. A long growing season a problem? Yes,
because it means weed grasses, and a few other things, like creeping
buttercup, can just keep on growing continually, while the range of
perennials we want to grow, both garden and native species, are
dormant.
We have, in Britain, an
incredibly aggressive flora of species, basically grasses, that are
very effective at smothering the ground and most other non-woody
vegetation, which if left unchecked they eventually eliminate. It is
one reason why we don't have much of a problem with invasive alien
species, as they can never get a foothold. But who needs invasive
aliens when you've got invasive natives? They, and I basically mean
tillering and rapidly spreading grasses, can grow at low temperatures
and root very quickly into new ground. They are one reason for the
low floral diversity of much of the British countryside (the other
main one is the last Ice Age). In the garden they smother perennials,
rooting into the crown and establishing a canopy of foliage before
the perennial starts growing. This is also one of the reasons that so
much of the British countryside has very low floral diversity.
The result of all this
is that we, in the west of Britain, have a major problem dealing with
weedy grasses. A major problem. Our own plot has a fertile soil,
particularly rich in phosphorus, which grasses love, and it is quite
heavy, so getting weeds, fine-rooted grasses in particular, out, is
THE problem. I would say that weeding is our number one garden task,
in fact I would say that it is equal in time and effort to all the
other garden tasks combined. People who don't garden here probably have no conception of how problematic this is.
If I were a 'normal'
gardener I would be less ambitious, plant densely and be do a lot of
hand weeding. But because of my professional interest in researching
diverse low-maintenance plant mixes, I've got a lot of ground to
cover. I want to get a sense of how realistic it is for those who
work with minimal resources, such as in public spaces, can manage, so
I have to look at all weed control methods. And it is a conundrum.
Handweeding
In light soils this is
easy and basically can be regarded as solving the problem. Here on
our heavy soil it is every impractical until the soil dries out, as
you end up with a barrow full of clods of earth, it being impossible
to shake the soil off the roots.
Hoeing
'Traditional' garden
practice involved a lot of hoeing, which detaches weeds from the
soil, so they dry out and die on the surface. However, conventionally
it went hand in hand with having bare earth between plants, which
simply offers habitat to yet more weeds. I, like many other
'naturalistic' gardeners, aim at having as extensive a vegetation
canopy as possible, which is one of the most effective ways of
preventing weed growth. During the winter however, with most
perennials dormant, the native weedy grasses can move in, from any
seed left from plants which were not removed last summer. Hoeing
amongst established perennial clumps is not easy, often ineffective
and in our conditions weeds don't die on the soil surface unless we
have a dry east wind – they actually carry on growing and then
re-root!
Hoeing has many other
disadvantages. Too early in the year and if you make a mistake, you
decapitate a perennial. It is also quite destructive, of seedlings
of desired plants and of the whole layer just above the soil surface
- of decaying plant remains, mosses, small harmless creeping
spontaneous plants – this layer being an important invertebrate
habitat and therefore crucial for garden biodiversity. It, and hand
digging, also disturbs the soil, bringing up yet more seed seed.
Burning
The idea of burning is
an unorthodox one, but one which the prairie movement has introduced
us to. It is the oldest land management tool: a great many tribal
cultures around the world have used it to manipulate their
environments throughout history. Out in the country, where we are, it
is possible to cut down perennials, and then have a prairie burn with
the debris. Not really very sociable if you have neighbours! And not
legal in many places. The alternative is to rake off the debris,
compost it or use it as mulch elsewhere and then go over with a flame
gun.
Burning certainly
knocks back weed grasses, so they are forced to regrow and by the
time they do so, the perennials will coming on full stream. Burning
will kill seedling grasses and a lot of other early germinating weed
seedlings, such as goosegrass. However, if you have evergreen
perennials, very early emerging ones, or bulbs, it has to be done
very carefully.
Burning is a
particularly good and fun way to get rid of grass debris. Molinias
and Calamagrostis go up like fireworks, to the extent that if I were
a public park manager in some places I would think twice about
planting them. Miscanthus here does not dry out enough, although in
the US I am told it goes off like a bomb.
Taking a flame gun solution to late winter weeds is a relatively new practice, widely promoted as an alternative to handweeding/hoeing or using herbicide. It is also increasingly being used in organic farming. It is of course is not particularly sustainable, even less so than Roundup, as propane gas is a fossil fuel. It, and prairie burning are also very destructive for the same reasons as hoeing – goodbye desired seedlings and ground level habitat. It also will not kill deeper rooted perennial weeds, or indeed most weed grasses when established. For persistent perennial weed grasses it is actually pretty useless.
Herbicide, i.e. Roundup
I am not organic (it
won't feed the world) and Roundup comes in very useful for the most
difficult places, or where I simply get to the end of my tether with
weedy grasses, and it is a fantastic time saver. It is non-persistent
and does have a good safety record, but we can never be sure, and
research may yet show something up which may mean we should consider
not using it. Many studies have been conducted over the years and it
has come out well on the safety front (though it should not be used
on sandy or stony soils which don't absorb it and allow it to be
broken down by bacteria, as happens on humus or clay rich soils, and
of course nowhere near water). Some recent studies have suggested it
may be a carcinogen, but the jury is still very much out.
There is a bigger
problem though, essentially a political one, as it is so impossible
to have a sensible discussion with many people about Roundup, as they
have made up their minds it is a creation of the devil, and that's
that. The organic movement is a dogma after all. But the fact that to
many people it is unacceptable is where we are at, so finding
alternatives is important, which makes me all the more interested in
researching a wide variety of non-chemical methods of weed control.
I think you could make
out a good case that Roundup is the least invasive method of weed
control, as it does not destroy the immediate above ground habitat,
leaves mosses untouched, and there is, as far as I am aware, no
evidence of a significant negative impact on animal biodiversity
(I've just been through a load of scientific papers on this). It,
like burning, also avoids disturbing the soil and so bringing up
buried weed seed. But convincing many domestic gardeners of this is
probably about as fruitless a task as persuading Donald Trump to
believe in climate change.
Before I leave the
subject of Roundup, if there is anyone still reading, I would like to
make a parallel with agronomy. The Americans have, for some time now,
been giving up ploughing, the practice that for many of us is somehow
synonymous with arable agriculture. Ploughing is very destructive of
soil structure, of soil life, and can encourage disastrous soil
erosion. It is for this latter reason that the US Department of
Agriculture has for some time now been encouraging 'no-til'. There
are other good reasons too, as not ploughing soil means that the soil
builds up its organic content, good for holding on to water,
nutrients and sequestering carbon. In fact no til is being promoted
as a major carbon dioxide sink, and therefore an important part of
controlling CO2 emissions. The idea is beginning to catch on with
British farmers too.
Trouble is no-til
classically involves spraying weeds off with the dreaded devil's milk
Roundup and then, a few weeks later sowing with a device which slices
through the dead weeds into the soil and sows the crop seed very
precisely. The alternative is a fossil fuel flame gun. There is no
easy answer here.
Strategies for the
future
Encourage ever denser
planting.
As more and more
species seed and spread my plantings are getting denser and therefore
more weed resistant. However there are some perennials which do seem
to be particularly prone to grass invasion of the crown and no amount
of dense planting will ever solve this if there is a local source of
weed grass seed.
Encourage ground level
perennials which will deny spaces to weeds but survive the
competition of the taller perennials.
Now this is a tall
order! Primula vulgaris, P. elatior, polyanthus and other hybrid
primroses are actually pretty good at this as they are more or less
summer dormant and do most of their growth in the October to April
period when the the heat-requiring summer perennials are dormant.
Liriope too, but in our cool summer climate this spreads so slowly as
to be almost useless. There is not a lot else.
Plant a matrix of weed
suppressing evergreen ground cover and then grow taller perennials in
it.
I tried this with the
evergreen Carex glauca, and it was a total failure, as all sort of
weeds from grasses to seedling Geranium 'Claridge Druce' moved in and
took over. I'm now trying it with Phlomis russeliana which here is
our most effective weed-suppressing perennial but which has
co-existed well with several robust perennials for five years in some
research plots. Any more suggestions?
Re-define what a weed
is
This can be very
fruitful. I have never understood why some people get so het up about
lesser celendine which spreads like mad, flowers in March and then
goes dormant. What problem is that? Creeping buttercup may be a pain
but in with established taller perennials it soon gets overshadowed
and can then be appreciated as a nice spring wildflower. I am
debating about whether to leave it some of my research plots.
At the end of the day a
weed is something which has the ability to out-compete and therefore
destroy the plants we are trying to grow.
Use slow-to-decay mulch
This is what I am
intending to do with those parts of the garden which are not research
plots, where decorative impact is important and where weed grasses
have been a particular problem. Many mulches simply rot down too
quickly but council green waste seems to be much longer lasting,
possibly because it is composted at a high temperature and is
therefore almost charcoal like (on the way to being bio-char
perhaps?). Weeds pull of out it nice and easy. So the plan is, buy a
lorry load, and get it spread, creating a new and much more friable
surface for weed control.
I think this weed grass
control issue is so important, I'll do an annual update. Now, for
having even mentioned the possibility of using Roundup, I'll sit back
and wait for the death threats.

